Culture frock
British Fashion Week is the time when our top designers put on display their wares for the coming season.
And since we’re living in a land where clothes and video are the new gods, the latest shows pulled in a number of style-conscious pop folk keen to keep their visuals up to date…
BODYMAP
Bodymap is a team of two young designers, David Holah and Stevie Stewart (Stevie’s a girl). So far they’re best known for their black and white patterned clothes (see Helen Terry’s latest video for examples), which have been lapped up by everyone from Vogue to the Riverside Studio’s resident dance company.
Both are 26 years old, and grew up watching T. Rex, Gary Glitter and Slade on the telly —
Seventies-style shrunken sweaters, big medallions and glitter were much in evidence —
Boy George turned out for the show with a wig like three dead crows on his head, and Marilyn by his side. What did you think of the togs, Maz?
“The initial ideas were good, but the show went on a bit. I liked the bald heads for the guys —
You’re not going to…
“Maybe! I quite liked those little shorts the guys were wearing —
Anything from the collection you’d like to take home?
“Yeah, that six-foot blonde one.”
Ooh, he is awful…
“Excellent! Up to their usual high standard,” was Helen Terry’s comment on the Bodymap collection.
“I liked the loose black and gold stuff best —
“I’ve known Stevie for about eight years; I used to have a market stall at Camden Lock, and she had the one next to it. They both graduated a year and half ago, and I’ve worn their stuff ever since. I tell them what I like, and they make it up in bigger sizes for me.”
Hey, Steve Norman! Come away from the after-show bar for a minute and tell us what you thought of the collection.
“Oh, this is a bit embarrassing.
“The clothes sound a bit glam for my taste; I prefer something a bit more classic, to be honest.”
Like that rather tasty pinstriped suit you’re wearing?
“Yeah, I bought this today at Yohji Yamamoto. I spotted it still in its wrapping, and asked to have a look. They hadn’t even put it out yet. I tried it on and thought, ‘I’ll have some of that —
If you’re trying to imagine the item in question, look no further than the latest David Bowie publicity pics. Never mind, Steve —
KATHARINE HAMNETT
The most influential British designer around has to be Katharine Hamnett, whose crumpled cotton clothes and “message” T-shirts were copied by every high street shop this summer.
Her show was a real dazzler, bursting with colours from canary yellow and tangerine to scarlet and peppermint green, made up into gorgeous silk suits, ruffled pants and minis with matching leggings. The T-shirt message for next year is: “Heroin-free zone —
“Wonderful. Thought it was brilliant. Love her,” was the reaction of an emotional Paul Rutherford, who’d arrived with ex-Belle Star Miranda Joyce. (Holly was there too, keeping quiet and looking very chubby). Back to Paul:
“We were the principal plunderer of the T-shirt idea, but I don’t think she minds, cos our messages were sympathetic to hers. There’s gonna be more Frankie T-shirts, but not political ones. The new ones have an equation: a sperm plus a bullet plus a cross plus a heart equals a bang, equals Frankie.”
“The clothes were great, really colourful and very wearable,” enthused Hamnett fan Jon Moss. “There was a beautiful purple I’d never seen before, and a lovely silver suit…
“Bright colours make great stage clothes for me, being a drummer. Wear dark colours and you’d disappear. I liked the girls’ things too —
“I got out and buy all my own clothes, I couldn’t get someone else to do it. Even George shops on his own. He just has a bloke waiting outside with a car in case he needs to run away.
“I’ve got one of the new anti-heroin T-shirts, cos coming from north London, I’ve seen a lot of wealthy children turn to heroin and destroy themselves. By the time they’re 16 they looked wasted. It’s terrible.”
“I’m frightened by the way heroin is taking over the western world,” says Ms Hamnett herself. “There are probably half a million addicts in this country and it’s increasing.
“People are having their education and opportunities cut, and turning to hard drugs in despair. You have to protest!
“Normal advertising slogans just boost the image of a company. I’d like to use those techniques… well, to set the world right.”
All interviews courtesy of Music Box cable TV channel
1. Jon Moss checks out Britain’s brightest clothes collections.
2&3. Classic silk cuts from Katharine Hamnett.
4. Paul from Frankie and ex-Belle Star Miranda feign wild enthusiasm.
5. An original Katharine Hamnett message tee shirt.
6&9. What the well-dressed suburban android will be wearing —
8. Helen Terry —
7. Frankie!
10. Marilyn and Boy friend.